Our visit to Eliksir Restaurant took place at the beginning of July, so the menu may have changed slightly since then, but we assume the experience remains of a similar standard. Eliksir gained fame on the Polish culinary scene, primarily because it was the first restaurant in Poland to receive a Michelin Green Star. This award is given to establishments that operate sustainably, using as many methods as possible to reduce resource consumption and minimise their negative environmental impact.
Locals from Gdańsk and the Tri-City area already knew of this restaurant, as it had been highly ranked in popular lists of the city’s best eateries. But now, its reputation has spread even further.
Eliksir can be found in the fashionable Garnizon (“garrison”) district of Gdańsk’s Wrzeszcz neighbourhood. The name of the district is no coincidence, as this area once housed Prussian barracks and later became property of the Polish military. Recently, it has become a vibrant neighbourhood with numerous restaurants, shops, and art galleries. The building housing Eliksir is part of the historical complex, built in 1882, originally serving as the commander’s house. The tasting menu cleverly references this history.
The entrance to Eliksir is rather understated, but once inside, you’re greeted by cosy interiors, brick walls, and wooden furniture. Immediately upon entry, you encounter the bar, which boasts one of the longest countertops in Poland and an impressive collection of alcohol. Eliksir is not just a restaurant; it’s also a cocktail bar. In fact, it was initially intended to be a cocktail bar with snacks, but it evolved in a positive direction, as confirmed by the glowing reviews from guests. Chef Paweł Wątor oversees the kitchen, and in our opinion, does an excellent job.
The restaurant menu offers various options, from à la carte to a six-course tasting menu in both classic and vegetarian versions, with the option of cocktail pairing, either alcoholic or non-alcoholic. We opted for the classic tasting menu with cocktail pairings.
To start, we were served two types of freshly baked bread with butter and dill, aerated lard with onion, and a vegan miso aubergine spread. The bread accompaniments pleasantly surprised us. Despite not being fans of lard, its fluffy version delighted us. Even more impressive was the aubergine spread—a great start to the meal.
Next came the beef fillet tartare with a runny egg yolk, radish, and potato glass. Accompanying this dish was a cocktail based on Scotch whisky with apple syrup and mustard tincture. The tartare, despite the modern accompaniments, had a fairly classic flavour, with the mentioned cocktail adding an interesting touch that made the starter unique.
The following starter was paired with a cocktail based on gin, lemon juice, champagne, and elderflower sorbet. It was served with sturgeon pâté and caviar, along with cucumber and hibiscus jelly. The pâté was excellent, particularly when combined with the cucumber. We had no complaints about any of the individual ingredients, though we felt the hibiscus jelly seemed slightly out of place, as did the cocktail.
The highlight of the evening for us was the “żurek (traditional Polish soup made with fermented rye flour) style” fermented celery sour soup with bacon crisps, confit leek, and quail egg. We would gladly return to Eliksir just to have this dish again. The celery flavour was prominent but well-balanced, appealing even to those who think they don’t like celery. If we had to compare it, we’d say it tasted somewhat like sorrel soup. This version of sour soup was unlike any we had ever tasted before, and with each spoonful, we regretted nearing the bottom of the bowl.
The next dish also didn’t disappoint: applewood pork belly with scorzonera puree with mustard, ash-roasted potato, pork jus, and apple gel. The dish was complemented by a cocktail featuring Irish whisky, strawberry cordial with pepper, and celery salt. We had expected something with bison grass vodka or calvados, but the cocktail pairing surprised us pleasantly.
As an intermezzo, we were served ramazzotti liqueur with jasmine—a palate cleanser that was much appreciated before the fish course. The next dish was trout with gooseberry relish, parsley puree, and croquette. It was paired with a cocktail made with lillet, kaffir lime, and sparkling wine. All the elements were delicious, though we felt they slightly overpowered the delicate fish, which had the potential to shine more.
The biggest surprise of the evening was the blueberry ice cream, prepared at our table using liquid nitrogen. The demonstration tied into the history of the building, but we won’t spoil the details. The ice cream might not have looked especially elegant, but the show itself was fantastic, and the ice cream was equally enjoyable.
The most beautiful dish of the evening was the Kashubian tiramisu, made from poppy seed sponge cake soaked in coffee, layered with homemade mascarpone cream, coated in white chocolate with poppy seeds, and served with strawberries (Kashubian!) in three forms—sorbet, gel, and fresh pieces. This was paired with a variation of espresso martini, featuring rum infused with truffle.
Overall, we had a wonderful evening at Eliksir. The whole team went out of their way to impress all guests, not just us. Although we were familiar with liquid nitrogen, it is rarely used for preparing ice cream in front of guests in Poland, so that earned Eliksir high marks for entertainment as well as outstanding food.
We’d happily return to try new ideas from the chef. The cuisine, rooted in tradition but with a creative twist, makes Eliksir a great place to take someone new to tasting menus but eager to explore.