Understanding the uniqueness of Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery requires first immersing oneself in the world of Peranakan cuisine, also known as Nyonya cuisine. Its roots date back to the 15th century and emerged as a result of Chinese migration to the port cities of the Malay Peninsula. The immigrants who settled there (mostly men) married local Malay women. From these unions, descendants were born who combined elements of both cultures, including language, clothing, architecture, and most notably, cuisine.
Peranakan cuisine is a fusion of Chinese subtlety and Malay intensity – complex curries, pickles, hand-pounded pastes made of chili, galangal, and fermented shrimp paste called belacan. A characteristic feature of these dishes is the long process of marinating, grinding, mixing, cooking, and sometimes even fermenting. Traditionally, the dishes were prepared by the women of the family (so-called Nyonyas), and to this day, they are considered the guardians of this cuisine. The most popular dishes of this cuisine include Pie Tee (crispy cups filled with vegetables), Nasi Ulam (herb rice), and Laksa Lemak (coconut noodle soup). However, it is important to emphasize that this is not street food. It is a home feast rooted in tradition, where bold flavor is a mandatory element.
In a world where trendy restaurants chase seasonal fashions, Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery goes against the current. Located in George Town on the island of Penang, the restaurant appears modest. The interior resembles a grandmother’s home more than a Michelin-starred venue. On the walls are old photos, porcelain, and retro display cabinets with souvenirs. Behind the kitchen stands Chef Gaik Lean – a legendary woman in the Penang culinary scene. For decades, she cooked for family and friends, adhering to old recipes. When she opened her own restaurant, she didn’t change a thing. There are no modern reinterpretations, no show in the kitchen, no tasting menu. The recipes and dishes are constant and not subject to modification. It is worth noting that when, in 2023, Chef Gaik Lean received a Michelin star, she was 69 years old and was the first woman from Malaysia whose restaurant received such a distinction.
It is also worth mentioning the justification published by the Michelin Guide explaining the award of the star:
“The memorabilia in the display cabinets and the 60s soundtrack exude the charm of a bygone era. Chef Gaik Lean has been guarding her secret recipes for decades and makes no compromises when it comes to food quality. Many dishes are made from scratch – including her heavenly pie tee and gulai tumis, in which the curry paste contains over eight ingredients, including fresh turmeric. Be sure to try the nasi ulam – an old, traditional recipe.”
As we already mentioned, the restaurant does not offer a tasting menu. Nor are there amuse-bouche or petit fours. Dishes are selected from a three-page menu. Upon entering the restaurant, we were seated at a long table with strangers. A celebration? Hard to say. The atmosphere resembled more a “canteen with prestige” than a dinner in a Michelin-starred restaurant. But more on that later.
For the appetizer, we chose a plate called BABA DELIGHT, which was a set of four classic Peranakan snacks – namely pie tee, lor bak, cucur udang, and acar awak. This option is ideal to get to know several of this cuisine’s specialties at once. Pie tee are small, crispy cups made of delicate pastry, filled with a mixture of grated vegetables (most commonly jicama and carrot), sometimes with the addition of dried shrimp or egg. The version at Auntie Gaik Lean’s was fresh and crunchy, but in our opinion, did not have a particularly distinctive character. The second appetizer was lor bak – seasoned minced pork wrapped in a thin soy milk skin (bean curd skin, yuba) and deep-fried. We definitely enjoyed this one. The appetizer was juicy and flavorful. We can even say it was one of the best items on the plate. The third element on the plate was a snack called cucur udang – fried fritters made of batter with shrimp, bean sprouts, and chives. This dish was golden and slightly greasy, but to our taste – again rather lacking in bold flavor. The last element on the plate was acar awak – pickled vegetables in spices with turmeric paste, peanuts, and sesame seeds. In our opinion, tasty and well-composed with the other components on the plate.
After the appetizer plate, we were served the main courses. When choosing the main dishes, our aim was to try as many local specialties as possible. That’s why we ordered three different dishes and decided to share them at the table. The first main course was curry tumis – a traditional Peranakan dish based on tamarind, chili, and spices. The version served here had a very aromatic sauce with pronounced acidity and an intense spice depth. One could taste galangal, kaffir lime, and garlic. The fish was tasty, but it was the sauce that elevated the whole dish. Definitely worth trying.
The next main course was sambal squid. It should be noted here that we originally ordered sambal with octopus, but our order was mistaken and what arrived at the table was sambal – yes – but with squid. We didn’t regret this mix-up, as the dish was aromatic, intense, with a noticeable kaffir aroma. A light spiciness nicely balanced the dish. The squid itself was tender and not overcooked. In our opinion, a very successful composition.
The last main course we chose was Nasi Ulam. We knew we would order this dish before even arriving at the restaurant. We had analyzed the Michelin Guide’s justification, which stated this was one of the dishes for which the restaurant received its award. The dish itself is one of the most classic recipes of Nyonya cuisine. Nasi Ulam is a dish that may appear simple, but requires extensive knowledge, experience, and time. It consists of cooked long-grain rice, which is only mixed by hand after cooling with a large amount of fresh, finely chopped herbs and spices. In Auntie Gaik Lean’s version, the rice was delicately fluffy, and the herb mixture intensely aromatic. One could taste, among others, mint, Thai basil, ginger, kaffir lime, fresh turmeric, as well as other local plants rarely found outside Malaysia and which can only be tasted locally. The dish was complemented by small pieces of salted kurau fish, which introduced a salty, fermented accent and enriched the umami flavor of the entire composition. The dish was not spicy – on the contrary. It was light and refreshing.
As for drinks, the restaurant does not offer any alcohol. It is definitely worth choosing the nutmeg punch to drink, which is a beverage characteristic of the Penang region. The drink, made from fresh nutmeg, surprises from the first sip. It combines sweetness with a light spiciness and an unexpected bitterness. Served with ice, it is perfectly refreshing, and its aroma is warm, spicy, and slightly resinous.
How do we rate Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery? The dishes themselves were tasty and aromatic, and we left the restaurant feeling full. However, we do not attempt a detailed evaluation of flavor composition nor suggest what could be improved. As Europeans encountering a cuisine and culinary tradition so different from our own, we approach it with humility and respect. One dissonance for us, however, was the evident prioritization of quick table turnover – crowd, profit, efficiency. This was apparent from the moment we entered. Guests without reservations (reservations only available for parties of four or more) are seated at large communal tables – with no privacy, no space. We hear every conversation of the neighboring guests even though we do not wish to. The dishes are served very quickly. We felt that we had to eat quickly because someone else would soon take our place. The service was impersonal and chaotic – our order was mixed up and there was no reaction.
In summary, if you’re looking for authentic contact with Peranakan cuisine, it is definitely worth a visit. If you’re looking for fine dining and a calm dining environment – better look elsewhere.