During our stay in Rome, encouraged by beautiful photos, positive reviews, and an intriguing menu, we decided to have dinner at the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Acquolina. The restaurant is located in The First Arte hotel, on a quiet street near Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps. Since it’s a hotel restaurant, the entrance is also through the hotel’s doors. It’s easy to find, as a plaque with the Michelin logo and the restaurant’s name hangs by the entrance.
The interior of Acquolina is designed in marine colours, dominated by shades of white, blue, and navy. The subdued lighting gives the impression of being underwater. The restaurant’s philosophy and menu also reference the Mediterranean Sea.
This philosophy is based on a fusion of “meditate” – deep exploration of mind and spirit – and “terra” – symbolizing the planet we live on, our roots, and connections. The menu draws inspiration from the Mediterranean, which for centuries has connected various nations, traditions, and cultures, allowing the creation of a menu that is an interpretation of Medi-Terrae culture. The menu at Acquolina is crafted by Daniele Lippi, a young, talented chef who gained experience in another Roman restaurant and several three-starred establishments. Speaking of the menu, there are two tasting options. One focuses primarily on seafood, and the other is more creative, blending seafood and meat in the chef’s original interpretation of surf and turf. Choosing a menu was a tough decision because we wanted to try both, but we ultimately went for the more daring option, convinced by a dish combining pigeon and eel. We were very curious about the flavour. The dishes were accompanied by wine pairings.
The start of the dinner at Acquolina was impressive. Within seconds, numerous small snacks appeared on the table, filling it almost entirely. It was hard to say which was the best, as they were all so different and delicious that comparing them was impossible. In a small bowl were clams with mushrooms under a white currant foam. In the photo, you can only see the foam, but the richness of flavour lay at the bottom of the dish. A very good start. Next, we had an apple taco with bonito and seaweed mayonnaise. A thin slice of apple, fastened with a small clip, concealed delicious tuna with aromatic mayonnaise. Simple yet genius. After the taco, we tried lettuce with trout roe, a slightly minty mousse, and cucumber pickles with egg sauce. These subtle additions, like sauces or mousses, elevate simple ingredients to new heights of flavour, leaving us in awe. And that wasn’t even the end. Stronger flavours were next. An onion tartlet was served with lightly grilled monkfish, which added a smoky flavour, and truffle. There was a lot going on in this dish, but the flavours were perfectly balanced. Lastly, we tried two milder snacks – crab wafers with onion gel and melon with swordfish ham. Perfection in its purest form.
We would be very wrong to think the evening’s biggest surprise was already behind us. Once again, we were astonished when the bread and butter arrived. We’ve been served wonderful bread many times, but Acquolina took it to the next level. Among the artisanal bread were seeded bread, semi-puff pastry with dried tomatoes, potato focaccia, polenta grissini, and sublime buffalo milk butter flavoured with hay, topped with grated cured tuna heart. This unexpected addition made the entire bread basket a true work of art. It was practically a dish on its own, especially with the accompanying wine, which perfectly complemented the flavours of the golden-brown bread.
After the bread came the appetizer – zucchini slices with oysters and caviar, served with an oyster and cucumber sauce, accompanied by an oyster and zucchini doughnut. The entire appetizer was a showcase of different versions of oysters and zucchini. The oyster flavour was unmistakable, and the combination was genius.
The next appetizer was unassuming – a piece of sweetbread with lemon gel, parsley, and shrimp foam from Malta. It didn’t look impressive in photos, but the taste was incredible. The dish was complemented by an excellent sauce, and the lemon added freshness, making it unique. We’d also like to highlight the excellent wine pairing from the Italian island of Ischia.
The next dish might seem controversial because we were served cold pasta! But during the summer, with nearly 40-degree heat, this chilled primo piatto was delightful. It was pennone pasta cooked in strawberries and served with raw shrimp, accompanied by a fruity rosé wine. No wonder this dish graced the cover of the Italian edition of Food and Wine.
After the delicate pasta, it was time for a flavour bomb: risotto made from Italian risoni pasta placed on mackerel carpaccio with bone marrow oil. The dish was creamy, rich, and full of intense fish and meat flavors.
Next came the chef’s signature dish – a heavily roasted artichoke on artichoke mousse, served with parsley, mint, and a sauce made from artichoke skins. Dishes like this showcase the chef’s mastery, as he manages to extract so many textures and flavors from a single, simple Mediterranean staple. The pairing of homemade kombucha with mint and licorice was a perfect complement. Masterful.
The next dish was a favourite for one of us, deemed the best of the entire tasting, while the other was more reserved, but that’s a matter of personal preference. It was ventresca, the fattiest part of tuna, lightly seared and served with cold eggplant marinated as carpione in basil vinegar. The texture and flavor of the tuna were reminiscent of wagyu beef, and the acidity of the eggplant added freshness, creating a sophisticated flavor combination. We can’t forget the miso-based sauce, which perfectly balanced the richness of the fish. This is one of those dishes we’ll remember for a long time.
The last main dish was the aforementioned pigeon, served alongside eel, confit apricots, apricot mousse, and a reduction of pigeon and eel. Accompanied by a tiny skewer of eel offal and apricot sorbet, it was another perfect composition built around three main ingredients in a fascinating presentation.
The pre-dessert was a sorbet of white asparagus with vanilla and bottarga. The sorbet was perfectly creamy, not too sweet, and balanced, pairing wonderfully with the umami-rich, salty bottarga.
When it was time for the main dessert, we were left speechless. The dessert resembled sun-scorched earth or cracked lava from Sicily, emphasized by dried flower decorations. It featured a black garlic sorbet with vinegar, white chocolate mousse, and a burned licorice meringue resembling that cracked earth. It was paired with a sweet red wine from 1932. This dessert was an unforgettable experience.
The dinner concluded with petit fours that, like the snacks at the beginning, took up almost the entire table. There was chocolate paper, sorbet made from a herb tasting like honey (we don’t know its proper name, but it was introduced to us as “mead leaf”), a puff pastry with apple, cream, and oyster leaf (growing on volcanic soil with a slightly mineral taste), an olive stuffed with cream, and a fig with foie gras. Though we were full after so many courses, we tried them all, as they were exceptional.
A big round of applause goes to the flawless service, which, despite being small in number, can serve as a model for how to make guests feel welcome and familiar, even on their first visit. We were especially impressed by how much we learned about the ingredients. We also had the chance to speak with the charming chef.
In summary – atmospheric interior, perfect flavours, intriguing combinations, delight from the first bite, excellent wine pairing, and impeccable service. If you’re ever in Rome, you must visit this restaurant!